Handling Shelter Cats & Assessing Their Behavior

When cats come to the A floor, they generally need a 24-hour adjustment period. If a cat comes to the front of cage, some interaction probably would be welcomed. If the cat looks scared, allow the kitty more time to watch/adjust. Gently talking without direct eye contact may help. A pom pom stick may be used to test the cat’s readiness to interact.

General Tips for Handling Shelter Cats

Avoid direct eye contact – cats associate staring with the beginning of conflict. Use minimal force and reassuring hand contact to put the cat at ease. To a cat, cuddling by a stranger is simply another form of restraint. Wearing clean clothing (gowns) between cats removes the smell of other cats and disarms the cat’s ability to discern danger. Cats react negatively to perfume.

Use distractions, like feathers or toys that rattle. A cat at ease will want to play although many will be too fearful to respond; even small indication of interest gives a hint of the cat’s “real” personality. Keep handling sessions short and pleasant – food treats, teasers, and toys will be remembered. The next time a cat is approached it will be more ready to come out for a handling, combing, or play session. Cats like routine.

Being removed from a cage can be stressful at first. Repetitive exposure to potentially uncomfortable situations that pose no actual threat helps a cat become bolder. As the cat begins to cope, its confidence builds, its overall fearfulness diminishes and natural tendencies may begin. No biting, scratching, or lashing out should be allowed – make a “hurt” noise and end the play/petting session. Cats should be rewarded for gentleness and learn not to harm humans. They should also learn that handling/stroking is not meant to be threatening, but pleasurable. Make notes on the whiteboard if the cat shows signs of fear and is hiding; ANY progress is an indication that eventually there will be success.

With regular enhanced handling, a cat begins to expect pleasure upon removal from his cage – this reduces fearfulness, which works against the cat’s adoption. Appearance is a big attraction to cat lovers and can make a real difference in speeding the cat’s adoption. Wet hand grooming and brushing removes dull dead shedding hair and adds gloss to the coat. Combing adds glamour to a long-haired cat. To introduce a caged cat to a potential adopter, remove the cat properly. Then take the cat, with a towel or something familiar, to the GA room. It is always ideal to interact with a cat approximately at eye level so that it feels secure enough to be curious. Most cats are reluctant to sit in the lap of a stranger but may approach in other friendly ways if given the chance. Visitors should always wash hands before handling cats.

Getting the cat out of the cage

First, assess the cat’s overall posture and body language – don’t take a chance with a cat who has his neck arched, ears back, fur on end, and dilated pupils. Use judgment with a shy cat who may hiss, spit, or even growl. Walk by and observe the cat a few times without removing him. Once you decide to remove the cat, you have to be quick about it. Approach with confidence and without hesitation. Don’t offer your hand to smell as you might with a normal “introduction.” Immediately touch and reposition the cat’s hind quarters to the front of the cage. Without petting the cat, remove it from the cage, hind quarters first (cat facing away from you), grasping its front legs with one hand and supporting its torso and hind legs with the other hand. Handle the cat firmly, turning it away from any other cats.

Face it away from you, allowing it to observe the space. Talk softly, sweetly, and gently the whole time you work with it for reassurance. Touch the cat with gentle strokes on its shoulders, side of head and neck, using minimal hand control. Lightly finger brush the side of his mouth to allow it to sense you. Avoid holding the cat around its middle, as it can easily turn and bite. With one hand on its shoulder blades to sense head movement, gradually massage the cat’s body, until it becomes less tense. As a stranger, absolutely avoid direct eye contact as this is perceived as confrontation by the cat. Avoid hugging or putting your face too close – this is considered to be constraint by a cat. Also be sensitive to overstimulation through too much petting.

A stranger rubbing the belly of a cat in unfamiliar surroundings is almost guaranteed to provoke even a very social cat. Cats consider their undersides to be very vulnerable to attack and only enjoy being touched in this way by trusted people. Most will try to bite or look as if they want to.

Conclusion

Once cats get the “hang” of the routine of the day in adoption, their curiosity starts to overcome their caution/fear instincts and they are then more ready to accept handling. When cats are shy or fearful, it is best to proceed slowly, always mindful of the cat’s body language. In order for cats to feel at ease, it’s best to house them waist high or higher. When cats are looked down upon, they feel fearful. Cats on the bottom row are at a distinct disadvantage, so it is best to give priority to black cats and other cats who are shy.